Onboard RV Generator Guide for Campers

Introduction

So, you’re thinking about installing an onboard RV generator. Maybe your last one died somewhere outside Barstow, or maybe you’re just tired of hearing your portable unit scream like a jet engine every time you want coffee.

Spoiler alert: not all generators are built the same. Some sip fuel. Some chug it like a diesel truck with a death wish. And the differences? They aren’t just about noise or wattage. They’re about where you’re camping, how much juice you use, what fuel you can actually find, and whether you want to sleep at night without smelling gas.

Now, before we get going — an onboard generator supplies power directly to the RV’s electrical system, usually through a transfer switch. That means lights, air conditioning, fridge, and outlets all come online with one button. Sounds easy, right? Until you realize there’s a mile-long checklist of fuel types, noise limits, mount sizes, and electrical compatibility to wade through.

This guide doesn’t care if you roll in a 45-foot Class A or a rebuilt van with dreams of vanlife greatness. If you need backup or full-time electricity off the grid, you’re in the right place.

Key Takeaways

An onboard RV generator connects to the RV’s power system through a transfer switch, providing reliable electricity at the push of a button.
Fuel type impacts runtime, emissions, and maintenance — choose based on availability and usage.
Noise and emissions matter — especially in national parks and crowded campgrounds. Look for CARB-compliant, low-decibel models.
Regular maintenance keeps your generator from failing when you need it most.
Proper installation with correct mounting, wiring, and ventilation is critical for safety and performance.
Onboard generators are ideal for comfort-focused RVers, while portable units work better for minimalists or budget-conscious travelers.

Generator Types Compared

You’ve probably heard someone say, “A generator’s a generator.” That person either doesn’t own an RV or is okay with blowing out their microwave and waking up the neighbors.

All right, let’s straighten this out.

EFI vs. Carb (Why It Starts When It’s Freezing)

Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) handles cold starts better, trims fuel automatically, and compensates for elevation and temperature. Carburetors work fine… until they gum up after a long nap.

EFI upsides: fewer cold-start tantrums, no choke dance, less varnish drama.
Carb upsides: cheaper upfront, easier backyard repairs.
If you camp high, hot, or year-round, EFI pays you back in fewer headaches.

Inverter Generators

These are the quiet nerds of the bunch. An inverter generator produces clean power with low total harmonic distortion, making it safe for electronics. Laptops, TVs, CPAP machines — all safe.

Good for: Small RVs, light power loads, weekend campers
Bad for: High-wattage appliances or full-time RV living
Named examples: Honda EU2200i, Yamaha EF2000iSv2, WEN 56380i

Conventional Generators

These are the loud uncles who bring the beer and the noise. A conventional generator outputs raw A/C power, usually with higher wattage but more fuel consumption and noise.

Good for: Large RVs, long stays, boondocking with power-hungry appliances
Bad for: People who like peace and quiet
Named examples: DuroMax XP5500EH, Westinghouse WGen7500, Champion 3500W

Dual-Fuel Generators

You get options. A dual-fuel generator runs on both gasoline and propane, which is helpful when one or the other isn’t available. The fuel source affects runtime, emissions, and even startup in cold weather.

Good for: Flexibility in fuel supply, off-grid setups
Bad for: Beginners who don’t like switching tanks
Named examples: Champion 2500-Watt Dual Fuel, DuroMax XP12000EH, Firman H03651

Built-in Onboard Models

Now we’re talking serious hardware. An onboard generator integrates with the RV chassis, connects through a transfer switch, and usually starts with a remote or push-button ignition.

Good for: Class A and Class C RVs, long trips, comfort-focused campers
Bad for: Minimalists or those without generator compartments
Named examples: Cummins Onan QG 5500, Generac Quietpact 75D

Each generator type determines the RV’s electrical reliability, and picking the wrong one can mean overloading circuits, wasting fuel, or making enemies at the campground.

Generator Type Comparison

Type	Noise	Fuel Options	Install Effort	Best For
Inverter	Low	Gasoline	Low	Light loads, quiet areas
Conventional	High	Gasoline	Medium	Large RVs, long stays
Dual-Fuel	Medium	Gas/Propane	Medium	Off-grid flexibility
Onboard	Low–Med	Diesel/Gas	High	Integrated setups

Power Requirements & Electrical Load

Let’s be honest — nobody buys a generator because they love math. But unless you enjoy tripping breakers and sitting in the dark, you’ll need to know your numbers.

Understanding Wattage

Your onboard generator supplies power in watts. There are two numbers that matter:

Starting (surge) watts: the spike when something first turns on
Running watts: the power needed to keep it running

Air conditioners? Surge hogs. LED lights? Basically nothing.

How to Calculate Your Load

Make a list. Add up the running wattage of what you’ll actually use at the same time. Then throw in the biggest starting wattage from something like the microwave or A/C. If your total’s 3,500 watts, don’t buy a 3,500-watt generator — give yourself headroom.

Sample Load Table

Appliance	Running Watts	Starting Watts
Air Conditioner (13.5k BTU)	1,500	3,000
Microwave	1,000	1,000
Refrigerator	180	600
Coffee Maker	900	900
TV & Electronics	200	200
Lights & Chargers	250	250

Estimated Total: 4,030 running, 5,800 starting

You’d want at least a 6,500-watt onboard generator just to be safe.

30-Amp vs 50-Amp

Don’t forget your plug type:

30-amp RVs = 3,600 watts max (120V × 30A = 3,600W)
50-amp RVs = 120V × 50A × 2 (two hot legs) = 12,000 watts

If you plug your 50-amp RV into a 3,000-watt genny, guess what? The A/C might work… but not much else.

Load Balancing Matters

Running everything at once is asking for trouble. Good practice? Rotate usage — cool the RV, then nuke your leftovers.

A/C Tips

A/C Soft-Start = Smaller Gen, Fewer Breaker Trips
Soft-start modules (Micro-Air EasyStart, SoftStartRV) cut the compressor’s startup surge by around 65–75%. That lets a right-sized generator start the A/C without dimming the whole neighborhood—and sometimes makes dual A/C workable on tighter power.

High-Elevation Sizing (Why 4,000 W Feels Like 3,200 W at 6,000 ft)

Engines lose roughly 3.5% of output per 1,000 feet. At 6,000 feet you’re down about 21%. A 4,000-watt generator behaves like ~3,160 watts up there. If you camp high, size up or use a soft-start on the A/C.

Fuel Options Explained

Here’s the part where it gets political. Some of you swear by diesel. Others won’t touch anything but propane. And a few wild souls mix and match with dual-fuel setups. Let’s break it down.

Gasoline

Gas-powered generators are easy to find and easy to use. But gasoline is volatile, smells like regret, and can be a fire hazard if stored wrong.

Pros: Cheap, readily available, high energy output
Cons: Short shelf life, carbon-heavy, noisy
Runtime: Around 8–12 hours per tank depending on load
Named examples: Honda EU7000is, Generac GP3000i

Propane

A propane generator burns cleaner, stores better, and doesn’t clog your carburetor when it sits. Downside? Less power and less runtime per gallon.

Pros: Clean-burning, long shelf life, low emissions
Cons: Bulkier tanks, lower BTU output
Runtime: Around 5–8 hours per 20 lb tank
Named examples: Westinghouse WGen3600DF, Firman H03651

Diesel

Diesel generators are torque monsters. They run long, wear slow, and sip fuel like a stingy uncle. But they’re heavy, noisy, and don’t always like the cold.

Pros: Great fuel economy, longer engine life
Cons: Smelly, louder, pricier
Runtime: 12–20 hours on a standard tank
Named examples: Cummins Onan QD 10000, Generac Quietpact 75D

Dual-Fuel

Can’t decide? Get both. A dual-fuel generator allows switching between propane and gas — sometimes mid-run.

Pros: Flexibility, backup fuel options
Cons: Slightly more expensive, more to maintain
Runtime: Depends on fuel source — propane usually runs shorter
Named examples: Champion 2500-Watt Dual Fuel, DuroMax XP4850EH

Fuel Type Determines Runtime & Emissions

Different fuels don’t just change your runtime. They also affect:

Noise level
Maintenance
Cold weather starts
Emission compliance (CARB/EPA)

Bottom line? Choose the fuel type that fits your travel pattern, access, and patience level.

Why It Quits Around a Quarter Tank

On a lot of motorhomes the generator’s fuel pickup sits higher in the tank than the engine’s. That’s intentional so you don’t strand yourself. The downside: the gen can shut off when the dash still shows about ¼ tank. Annoying, but normal.

RV Compatibility

So you found a sweet deal on a generator — awesome. But can it actually fit in your RV without hacking holes in the floor or rerouting your plumbing? Yeah, that part matters.

Different RVs, Different Generator Needs

Let’s keep it simple:

Class A Motorhomes: Usually have dedicated generator compartments and enough space for a large onboard generator like the Cummins Onan QG 7000
Class B Vans: Space is tight — if it doesn’t fit under the bed or in a cabinet, it’s not happening
Class C Motorhomes: Often come pre-wired, but still need attention to ventilation and mount clearance
Travel Trailers & Fifth Wheels: Usually don’t come with onboard units — you’ll need to install a compartment, mount, and switch system

Mounting Considerations

Is there room for it?
Can it be safely vented?
Will the weight throw off your trailer balance?

RV structure limits what generator you can use. Stuffing a 200-pound diesel beast into a tiny bumper-pull trailer? Not gonna work.

Wiring & Power Compatibility

Does your RV use 30-amp or 50-amp service?
Is there already a transfer switch installed?
Can the generator sync with your inverter or battery charger?

Some newer RVs support parallel kits, meaning you can run two smaller generators together if onboard installation isn’t viable.

Pre-wired vs Bare Bones

Some rigs (especially Winnebago, Thor, and Jayco) come pre-wired for onboard generators, making install easier. Others? You’ll be drilling, mounting, and praying.

The generator’s compatibility with your RV chassis, wiring, and weight balance determines whether you can install it onboard — or just strap it to a cargo rack and hope for the best.

Installation Essentials

Here’s where a lot of people say, “I’ll just bolt it in and wire it up.” Sure, and I’ll just “rebuild the transmission real quick.” There’s more to installing an onboard generator than sliding it into a box and calling it a day.

Electrical Integration: Neutral Bonding, ATS, and GFCI Trips

This is where mystery gremlins live.

Bonded vs floating neutral: Onboard units are usually bonded neutral. Many portables are floating neutral. Mix that with the wrong setup and GFCIs throw tantrums.
Neutral-switching ATS: Some transfer switches switch the neutral, some don’t. If your generator’s neutral doesn’t match the ATS design, expect nuisance trips.
Bonding plugs: Only use where appropriate (portable feeding the RV through a proper inlet). Never “fake” a ground.
Bottom line: match your generator’s neutral scheme to your transfer switch and panel. Saves hours of head-scratching.

Transfer Switch Types: The Heart of It All

The transfer switch routes power from the generator to the RV’s electrical system — safely.
Without it? You risk backfeeding, frying electronics, or worse, electrocuting someone on the power pole.

Manual vs. Automatic switches
30-amp vs 50-amp models
Named examples: Go Power TS-30, Progressive Dynamics PD52

Mounting & Placement

You need:

A level platform
Vibration dampening (pads or rubber feet)
Clearance for airflow and exhaust
Access for fuel line and wiring

Camper slide trays like those from MORryde make life easier, especially for heavier models.

Ventilation and Exhaust

An onboard generator must be vented to the outside. That’s not optional. Exhaust build-up is lethal. Make sure:

The exhaust points away from windows
There’s space for airflow around the intake
You don’t melt your undercarriage

Named kits: Cummins Onan Exhaust Kit, Gen-Turi Vertical Exhaust System

Wiring and Protection

Use the correct gauge wire for your power draw
Install a surge protector and breaker panel
Protect wiring with conduit or armor cable

Some RVs come pre-wired. If yours doesn’t, be ready to run lines from the generator bay to the main breaker box.

Professional Install vs DIY

If you’re good with tools and wiring? Go for it. But if you’re even slightly unsure:

Hire an RV electrician
Ask about warranty-safe installs
Make sure it’s code compliant

Installing your generator the right way prevents power surges, protects your appliances, and most importantly — keeps the fire extinguisher where it belongs: unused.

Controlling & Monitoring

Remember when starting a generator meant yanking a cord until your shoulder popped? Yeah, onboard models aren’t like that. Thank whatever mechanical wizard made remote start a thing.

Automation & Load Management (So It Starts Itself)

Auto Generator Start (AGS) can kick the gen on when:

• House batteries drop below a set voltage
• Inside temp gets too hot for comfort
• Shore power dies while you’re mid-movie
Pair that with an Energy Management System (EMS) and the rig sheds non-essentials first (water heater, microwave) so your A/C and outlets don’t face-plant. You set the priorities; the system does the juggling.

Remote Start & Push-Button Controls

Most modern onboard generators include push-button ignition or remote start fobs, sometimes built into the dashboard or a wall panel inside the RV.

Remote starts can work up to 50+ feet
Great for late-night power-ups without going outside in your boxers
Named examples: Cummins Onan EC-30 Remote, Champion Wireless Remote Start

Digital Control Panels

These aren’t just switches. They:

Show runtime hours
Monitor voltage and load
Alert for low oil, overheating, or service needed

Some panels even auto-start your generator when the batteries hit a certain level — handy when you’re boondocking or using solar as backup.

Named examples: Generac Evolution Controller, Yamaha Smart Dial, Honda My Generator App

Bluetooth & App Control

The newer generation (pun intended) of generator monitoring apps let you:

Start and stop the unit remotely
View load, voltage, and fuel level
Set schedules for automatic operation

Popular brands offer their own:

Honda My Generator App
Champion Wireless Monitoring
Westinghouse iGen Mobile App

Hour Meters Matter

You wouldn’t skip oil changes in your truck. Don’t skip them here. Hour meters let you:

Track run time for maintenance
Know when you’re overdue on oil/filter changes
Gauge fuel efficiency

Keeping tabs on your generator isn’t just for nerds. It’s how you keep it running when you need it most.

Maintenance & Upkeep

Generators only break when you need them most. That’s not superstition — it’s user neglect. You treat it like a lawnmower and it’ll act like one: sputtering, choking, and quitting halfway through the job.

Regular Checks Save Headaches

An onboard generator requires maintenance based on hours of use — not just calendar time.

Oil changes: every 50–100 hours
Air filter replacement: check every 150 hours
Spark plug inspection: around 200 hours
Fuel system treatment: especially if you run gas or ethanol blends

Use a maintenance log (paper or digital) if you actually want to remember.

Maintenance Kits Exist for a Reason

Skip cobbling together parts. Use:

Honda EU2200i Maintenance Kit
Cummins Onan RV Generator Tune-Up Kit
Champion Generator Service Pack
DuroMax Oil + Filter Pack

They usually include:

Oil
Spark plug
Air filter
Funnel and gloves
Instructions (that you may or may not read)

Fuel Stabilizers Keep Things Clean

If your generator sits more than a month without use — and let’s be honest, it will — use a fuel stabilizer. Otherwise:

Gasoline turns to varnish
Carburetors clog
You’ll swear loudly when it doesn’t start

Named products: STA-BIL Storage, Sea Foam Motor Treatment

Test Runs Aren’t Optional

Run it once a month. For 20 minutes. Under load. That:

Keeps oil circulating
Burns off condensation
Tests the start-up and transfer switch

A dead generator is useless. A neglected generator is just a soon-to-be dead one.

Noise & Emissions

Ever heard a generator fire up at 2 a.m. in a quiet campground? Yeah, so has everyone else within a mile. That’s why noise level and emissions compliance aren’t just nice features — they’re survival tactics.

Decibel Ratings: What They Actually Mean

50–60 dB: About as loud as a conversation
70–80 dB: Vacuum cleaner range — annoying but manageable
90+ dB: Lawnmower territory, and you’ll make enemies fast

Inverter generators are quieter, often running at below 60 dB at 25% load. Bigger units? Expect 70–80 dB unless you upgrade the muffler or build a sound box.

Named quiet models:

Honda EU2200i (48–57 dB)
Yamaha EF3000iSEB (53–60 dB)
Westinghouse iGen4500 (52 dB)

How to Reduce Generator Noise

Add a muffler upgrade or baffle system
Mount on anti-vibration pads
Build a ventilated soundproof box (carefully)
Place it on soft ground, not concrete or a truck bed

Emissions: Don’t Skip the Fine Print

If you’re heading to California or many national parks, CARB compliance is non-negotiable.

CARB-compliant generators release fewer toxic fumes
EPA certified means it meets federal clean air standards
Some areas restrict use of non-certified units entirely

Named compliant models:

Champion 2500-Watt Dual Fuel (CARB + EPA)
Cummins Onan QG Series
Honda EU7000is

Fuel Type Affects Emissions

Propane burns cleaner but produces less power
Diesel runs efficient but smells like old truck stops
Gasoline sits somewhere in the middle — power-heavy, pollution-prone

Your generator emits noise and carbon, and how much depends on the fuel, engine design, and load. Lowering those emissions isn’t just good for nature — it keeps you out of trouble with park rangers.

Spark Arresters (Ranger Approved)

Some public lands require a USFS-qualified spark arrester. Keep the screen in place and clean. If you camp out West during fire season, this isn’t optional.

CARB SORE Quick Note

California tightened small-engine rules. If you buy or travel there, make sure your unit is CARB-compliant. It’ll save you headaches at the gate and in inspections.

Troubleshooting Tips

Nothing ruins a trip faster than a generator that won’t start. Or worse — one that starts and then dies right when your coffee’s halfway brewed.

Let’s walk through the usual suspects.

Symptom: It Won’t Start

Check the basics:

Is there fuel in the tank? (Don’t laugh, it happens.)
Is the oil level too low? Most models have auto shutoff.
Is the battery charged (for electric start models)?
Is the choke in the right position?

If yes to all that? Move on to:

Spark plug test: Use a tester or swap in a new one
Fuel line: Make sure it isn’t clogged or leaking
Air filter: If it looks like a dirt cake, replace it

Symptom: It Starts, Then Dies

Could be:

Carburetor gunked up from old fuel
Fuel stabilizer wasn’t used last season
Fuel valve isn’t open all the way
Load demand too high — try starting it with nothing plugged in

Symptom: It Runs But Doesn’t Power Anything

This is usually a wiring or breaker issue:

Is the transfer switch engaged?
Did the breaker on the generator trip?
Is the shore power cord connected properly?
Check for GFCI outlet resets

A malfunctioning generator prevents electricity flow to the RV’s systems, which turns your mobile vacation into a stationary battery drain.

Helpful Tools for Troubleshooting

Multimeter: Check voltage output
Spark tester: Quick way to diagnose ignition
Fuel pressure gauge: Rarely needed, but helpful for diagnosing delivery issues
Carburetor cleaner: Because fuel residue is nasty

When to Call in Help

If you:

Smell raw fuel and don’t know why
See exposed wires
Hear grinding, knocking, or sizzling noises

Just stop. You’ve gone from DIY to “this might void the warranty.”

Fast-Track Troubleshooting (Onan-Style Cheatsheet)

Symptom	Likely Culprit	Quick Check
Cranks forever, never fires (Over-Crank / Code 4)	Empty tank, no prime, bad plug	Hold STOP/PRIME 20–30 sec, check fuel & plug
Runs then stops (Code 36)	Fuel delivery, clogged filter, low oil	Confirm fuel flow, replace filter, verify oil level
Voltage but no power to RV	ATS / breaker / GFCI	Reset gen breaker, confirm ATS selection, test GFCI
Trips when A/C starts	Inrush too high	Add soft-start, stagger loads, verify generator headroom
Random GFCI trips	Neutral/ground scheme mismatch	Confirm bonded vs floating neutral and ATS type

Prime tip: many units want STOP/PRIME held for a good 20–30 seconds after sitting. Don’t rush it.

Safety Must-Knows

Generators aren’t just noisy boxes that make lights work — they’re potential fire hazards on wheels. And if you think that’s dramatic, just ask anyone who’s had a carbon monoxide alarm go off at 3 a.m.

Carbon Monoxide Is a Killer

Let’s not sugarcoat it. An onboard generator produces carbon monoxide, and without proper venting, it can build up fast.

Install a CO detector inside the RV — and test it monthly
Never run the generator in enclosed or semi-enclosed spaces
Point the exhaust away from windows, vents, and people
Exhaust routing check every season; loose joints = CO leak. Don’t find out the hard way.

Named examples:

Kidde CO Alarm with Digital Display
First Alert Battery-Powered Detector

Fire Hazards Are Real

Keep a Class B-C fire extinguisher in the RV and outside by the generator compartment
Avoid placing fuel containers near hot components
Never refuel while the generator is hot or running

Recommended product: First Alert Tundra Fire Spray

Grounding and GFCI

If your generator isn’t properly grounded, it can:

Fry your RV’s electrical system
Deliver painful (and dangerous) shocks
Void your warranty faster than a shady wiring job

GFCI outlets add another layer of safety. Many models include them, but you can add inline protectors as well.

Safety gear examples:

Progressive Industries EMS
Southwire Surge Guard 34950

Overload Protection

Your generator’s breaker panel protects against:

Overdrawn circuits
Appliance damage
Fire from overheated wires

Always reset breakers at the generator before blaming your fridge.

Emergency Shutoff

Know exactly where your generator’s kill switch is — and make sure every adult in the RV knows it too.

In an emergency, speed matters more than instructions.

Generator Storage & Off-Season Prep

Here’s the thing: your generator doesn’t care if you “meant to run it.” If it sits unused for months, it’s going to hold a grudge — and you’ll pay for it with a dead start and clogged lines.

Use a Fuel Stabilizer or Regret Everything

Gasoline breaks down. Fast. Without stabilizer:

Fuel turns sticky
Carburetors clog
Startups get ugly

Recommended products:

STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer
Sea Foam SF-16

Run the generator for a few minutes after adding the stabilizer to pull it through the system.

Change the Oil Before Storage

Even if it “looks clean.” Contaminants settle and cause corrosion.

Run the unit for a few minutes
Drain old oil
Refill with fresh oil
Start it once more to coat everything
Then shut it down

Named examples:

Honda 08207-10W30,
Cummins Onan Maintenance Oil Kit

Keep It Covered, But Let It Breathe

Moisture is the enemy. Use a vented, weatherproof cover — not a trash bag and a prayer.

Top options:

Camco Generator Cover
Westinghouse Outdoor Cover

Battery Maintenance

For electric start generators:

Disconnect the battery during long storage
Charge it monthly
Store it in a cool, dry place

Dead battery = dead generator = dead plans.

Test Monthly or Pay Later

Even if you’re not using it:

Run the generator under load for 15–20 minutes once a month
Cycle on major appliances
Listen for weird noises

If something sounds off, it probably is. Fix it before you’re 50 miles from the nearest hardware store.

Pro Tip from Full-Timers

“After installing a Cummins Onan QG 5500 in our Class C, we learned the hard way that airflow clearance matters. We had to redo the mount with a side-vent mod after the heat tripped the safety shutoff during a summer trip to Arizona. Measure twice — and then double it.” – Al B., Phoenix, Az

Onboard vs. Portable: Final Call

All right, time to pick a side. Some folks treat portable generators like gold. Others won’t settle for anything less than a built-in beast humming under their floorboards.

Let’s make this easy.

Why Choose an Onboard Generator

Integrated startup: Push a button inside your RV and boom — power
Cleaner install: Hidden wiring, dedicated exhaust, safer ventilation
Less hassle: No hauling, chaining, or tripping over cords
Ideal for: Class A and C RVs, long trips, off-grid regulars
Run-While-Driving: Onboard units can keep roof A/C and the fridge happy rolling down I-40. Portables can’t do that safely.

Triplet: Onboard generator connects through a transfer switch to the RV’s electrical system

Why Stick with Portable

Cheaper upfront
Easier to replace or upgrade
Can move it between RVs or use at home
Serviceability Tradeoff: Portables are easier/cheaper to replace. Onboard systems are harder to steal and way nicer to live with, but repairs mean climbing into a compartment — and sometimes a shop visit.

Ideal for: Smaller RVs, weekend warriors, people who camp where silence matters

Note: A portable unit can be quiet and efficient — but setup and teardown are always manual. Also, you’ll need:

A safe spot for exhaust
Fuel storage
Lockdown during transit

Security and Theft

An onboard unit is harder to steal (unless someone wants to unbolt your frame). A portable one left out overnight? Let’s just say Craigslist has plenty of listings for “like new” generators with suspicious prices.

Who Should Avoid Onboard?

Budget-conscious RVers
Minimalist vanlifers
Anyone without a generator bay
Folks who don’t want to deal with installation

Bottom line: if you want automation, comfort, and clean integration, go onboard. If you want flexibility, low cost, and quick swaps, stick with portable.

FAQ

What size generator do I need for a 30-amp RV?
A 30-amp RV can draw up to 3,600 watts. To avoid tripping the breaker, aim for a 4,000–4,500-watt generator to give yourself overhead.

Can I install an onboard generator myself?
Yes, if you’re handy and the RV is pre-wired. But for most setups — especially involving transfer switches, fuel lines, or exhaust routing — it’s better (and safer) to use a pro.

How do I know if my generator is CARB compliant?
Look for a label that says CARB Certified or check the manufacturer’s specs. If it doesn’t clearly say it — assume it’s not.

What’s the quietest onboard generator?
Right now, it’s probably the Cummins Onan QG 2800i or the Honda EU7000is (for larger rigs). Expect 50–60 decibels under typical load.

Do dual-fuel models cost more to maintain?
Not by much. You’ll pay more upfront, and the extra fuel components may require occasional maintenance. But many RVers say the flexibility is worth it.

References

Cummins Onan RV Generator Specs – used to validate fuel consumption and noise levels of built-in models
Honda EU2200i Official Page – product specifications and maintenance details
Champion Power Equipment Generator Guide – for dual-fuel runtime benchmarks
Westinghouse iGen Series Overview – runtime benchmarks and compliance data
EPA Regulations on Small Generators – emission standards for gasoline, diesel, and propane units

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